The relevance and accuracy of an AI algorithm-based descriptor on 23 facial attributes in a diverse female US population.

BACKGROUND: The response of AI in situations that mimic real life scenarios is poorly explored in populations of high diversity. OBJECTIVE: To assess the accuracy and validate the relevance of an automated, algorithm-based analysis geared toward facial attributes devoted to the adornment routines of women. METHODS: In a cross-sectional study, two diversified groups presenting similar distributions such as age, ancestry, skin phototype, and geographical location was created from the selfie images of 1041 female in a US population. 521 images were analyzed as part of a new training dataset aimed to improve the original algorithm and 520 were aimed to validate the performance of the AI. From a total 23 facial attributes (16 continuous and 7 categorical), all images were analyzed by 24 make-up experts and by the automated descriptor tool. RESULTS: For all facial attributes, the new and the original automated tool both surpassed the grading of the experts on a diverse population of women. For the 16 continuous attributes, the gradings obtained by the new system strongly correlated with the assessment made by make-up experts (r ≥ 0.80; p < 0.0001) and supported by a low error rate. For the seven categorical attributes, the overall accuracy of the AI-facial descriptor was improved via enrichment of the training dataset. However, some weaker performance in spotting specific facial attributes were noted. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, the AI-automatic facial descriptor tool was deemed accurate for analysis of facial attributes for diverse women although some skin complexion, eye color, and hair features required some further finetuning.

A Bayesian network meta-analysis of 14 molecules inhibiting UV daylight-induced pigmentation.

INTRODUCTION: Hyperpigmentation disorders are very frequent, affect the quality of life and may become a psychological burden for afflicted patients. Many anti-pigmenting or depigmenting agents are available with various efficacy and almost no comparative data. 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) was recently proposed as a viable candidate showing safe and effective results on hyperpigmentation control in vitro and in vivo. OBJECTIVES: A Bayesian network meta-analysis (BNMA) was conducted to map and rank the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on UV daylight (UVDL)-induced pigmentation together with 13 other reference molecules. A comparison in the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% was also performed. METHODOLOGY: Fourteen studies were conducted, for each, on 15-30 women of skin phototype III in Shanghai, China and Paris, France. The products were applied on mini zone, in randomized and blinded protocol, on the back, 5 days a week during 6 weeks, at a dose of 4 mg/cm2 . During the second week, volunteers were exposed under to varying minimum erythemal dose of UVDL during 4 consecutive days-adapted to obtain a similar induction of skin pigmentation regardless of the population. Assessments were performed instrumentally using Chromameter®. Ascorbic acid 7% was used as a positive control for all experiments. A Bayesian network meta-analysis was then established to map and follow the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% performance with 13 reference molecules (glutathione 2%, kojic acid 1%, hydroquinone 4%, ascorbyl glucoside 2%, niacinamide 4%, etc.). RESULTS: 2-MNG 0.5% dominated the ranking at all time points with a significant high probability of strong efficacy against UVDL-induced pigmentation. Ascorbic acid 7% ranks second after 4 days of irradiations (D12 ) whereas hydroquinone 4% ranks second 1 month after irradiations (D40 ). In the kinetics, 2-MNG at 0.5% was effective as from the end of irradiations (D12 ) to the study endpoint (D40 ). This suggested an immediate and persistent efficacy across all timepoints evaluated. CONCLUSION: The BNMA revealed a rapid and lasting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting phases of the clinical protocol. 2-MNG 0.5% ranked first, with immediate and lasting effect compared to 13 other references. This study is the first allowing comparison between reference anti-pigmenting and depigmenting agents and will help clinicians for proposing the most effective approach for their patients.

Awareness of sun exposure risks and photoprotection for preventing pigmentary disorders in Asian populations: Survey results from three Asian countries and expert panel recommendations.

BACKGROUND: In this article, we review and discuss the photoprotection behavior of Asians based on the literature, along with a subanalysis of an original online survey, and make recommendations to optimize photoprotection for Asian populations to prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders. METHODS: An international panel of eight dermatologists from Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Singapore, Indonesia, and Vietnam) met to discuss sunscreen photoprotection for Asian patients. Additionally, a subanalysis of an online survey by 3000 respondents from three Asian countries (China, Indonesia, and Japan) investigated general public awareness and attitudes to sun exposure. RESULTS: A pre-meeting survey of the eight experts from Asia showed key concerns of Asian patients consulting dermatologists are pigmentary disorders, especially actinic/senile lentigo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, vitiligo, and Hori's nevus. The survey subanalysis of participants from China, Indonesia, and Japan with predominantly Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) II to IV revealed that they are particularly concerned about sun exposure causing photoaging and pigmentary disorders. Most of the respondents indicated they have limited knowledge on sunlight radiation and appropriate sunscreen protection factors. Only 22%, 13%, and 3% for China, Indonesia, and Japan, respectively, systematically use multiple protective measures (using sunscreen, avoiding midday sun, staying in the shade, wearing a hat, protective clothing, and sunglasses) when exposed to the sun. CONCLUSIONS: Further education is needed for Asian populations on the importance of comprehensive daily photoprotection, including broad-spectrum sunscreen, with high UVA and visible light protection, to reduce and prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

Applications of the new Aeva-HE™ imaging system: Its link with the visual evaluation of facial wrinkles and its potential in screening tensile products.

OBJECTIVES: To evaluate, in vivo, a recently developed imaging system (Aeva-HE™), based on fringe projection methodology: (i) its correlation with expert's assessments and real age of 85 French Caucasian women and (ii) its potential, as a screening tool, in rapidly selecting prototypes of tensile cosmetic products. MATERIALS AND METHODS: First, the bare faces of 85 differently aged French/Caucasian women were photographed under standard conditions and further analyzed by the Aeva-HE™ device. An expert aesthetician graded the severity of wrinkling on a fixed scale, helped by the use of a dedicated Skin Aging Atlas. A panel of 15 judges performed the same task on full-face standard photographs. The Aeva-HE™ software yielded various wrinkle's parameters (density, volume, mean depth, etc.) on different facial locations, according to age-groups. Second, seven women, balanced in age and wrinkling severity, were recruited in a separate study. These women applied at Day 1 a prototype of the tensile product and at Day 2, they applied another prototype of the tensile product. The whole faces (before and after products application) of the seven studied women were captured and analyzed by the Aeva-HE™ system. RESULTS: The density of wrinkles was significantly highly correlated with the aesthetician scores and, unsurprisingly, with age. Some parameters (volume, depths) of different wrinkles (glabellar, crow's feet, cheeks) were quantified, showing different absolute values and of statistically different progressions with age. The amplitudes of the rapid effects brought by the two prototypes of tensile products were clearly differentiated. CONCLUSION: The recently developed device Aeva-HE™ is an efficient system for rapidly establishing a faithful and precise status of facial wrinkles, in vivo and seems like a precious tool in the rapid screening of tensile products, possibly performed on a rather limited number of subjects.

Photoaging's portrait: The road map towards its photoprotection.

OBJECTIVE: To summarize key research published by the author's group, dealing with skin photoaging and its photoprotection. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Two methodologies (standard photographs and selfies imaging) resulting from referential skin ageing atlases were applied on 2487 subjects of different ancestries, ages and gender. These aimed at first to best assess and grade the variable severities of some facial signs (texture/wrinkles, pigmentary spots, sagging and vascular disorders) that occur progressively during the photoaging process. Second, such methodologies were used to record the benefits brought by a photoprotective regimen (671 women and men). RESULTS: In all studied ancestries, each facial sign show an increase severity along decades, at its own pace, some showing a linear like progression, whereas some plateau at early ages. These changes differed according to skin innate colour (phototype) and with individual behaviours vis-à-vis sun exposures, more so among European women than North-East Asian women. An effect of gender (less severe alterations) was observed on Chinese men, as compared to Chinese women. Pigmentary disorders were found hallmarks of photo-aged North-East Asian women. Globally, photoaging impact the apparent age of the different subjects. The counteracting effects of strong topical Photoprotective regimens were evidenced along a 6-month seasonality in Chinese and French women or 1-year period in Brazilian women with phototypes II to VI. Photoprotection led to a more even skin complexion among Indian subjects with pigment irregularities. CONCLUSION: Two factors clearly hamper a better assessment of the efficiency of photoprotection of the sun-induced cutaneous ageing: short durations (months) of the studies with regard to the global fate of photoaging by decades and the number of studied subjects, limited to hundreds for practical reasons. The methodology based on the automatic analysis of facial signs through selfies images could theoretically bypass both factors, allowing thousands of subjects to be studied along years.

OBJECTIF: Résumer les travaux précédemment publiés par le groupe auquel appartient l'auteur dans le cadre du photo-vieillissement cutané et de sa photoprotection. MATÉRIEL ET MÉTHODES: Deux méthodologies (issues de photographies standards ou d'images selfies) furent successivement utilisées, basées sur des atlas de référence du vieillissement cutané facial, et appliquées à 2487 sujets de différentes ethnies, des deux sexes et d'âges différents. Ces études visaient d'abord à déterminer et quantifier au mieux les sévérités variables de quelques signes du visage (texture/rides, taches pigmentaires, relâchement, désordres vasculaires) qui apparaissent progressivement au cours du photo-vieillissement cutané. En second lieu, de déterminer les bénéfices apportés par un produit photo-protecteur (671 femmes et hommes). RESULTATS: Dans tous les groupes ethniques étudiés, chaque signe du visage possède son développement propre, certains selon une progression quasi linéaire tandis que d'autres atteignent un plateau assez tôt. Ces modifications diffèrent selon la carnation naturelle (phototype) et le carnation individuel vis à vis de l'exposition solaire, surtout chez les femmes Européennes, comparées aux femmes Chinoises. Un effet du genre (modifications moins sévères) a été observé chez les hommes Chinois, comparés aux femmes Chinoises. Les désordres pigmentaires semblent caractériser les femmes asiatiques. Globalement, le photo-vieillissement impacte l'âge apparent des différents sujets étudiés. Les effets luttant contre ces changements, apportés par une forte photoprotection topique ont été mis en évidence après 6 mois chez les femmes Chinoises et Françaises ou sur une période d'un an chez les femmes Brésiliennes de phototypes II à VI. Une forte photoprotection a conduit à une carnation du visage plus homogène chez des sujets Indiens présentant des irrégularités pigmentaires. CONCLUSION: Deux facteurs limitent clairement une meilleure estimation de l'efficacité de la photoprotection du vieillissement cutané photo-induit: courte durée des observations (mois) par rapport au lent (décennies) développement du photo-vieillissement et le nombre de sujets étudiés, limité à quelques centaines pour des raisons pratiques. La méthodologie basée sur l'analyse automatique d'images selfies semble en théorie apte à contourner ces deux facteurs, autorisant l'enregistrement de données sur des milliers de sujets durant des années.

Evaluation of adapted dermocosmetic regimens for perimenopausal and menopausal women using an artificial intelligence-based algorithm and quality of life questionnaires: An open observational study.

BACKGROUND: The decline in estrogen levels from several years before (perimenopause) and during menopause has various negative effects, including skin specific issues, which often receive less attention than other menopausal symptoms despite having a significant negative effect on quality of life (QoL). The objective of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of anti-aging dermocosmetic products designed for women during the perimenopause and menopause. MATERIALS AND METHODS: An open study of 101 perimenopausal women (no menstruation for 4-12 months or irregular menstruation for <5 years) and 101 menopausal women (no menstruation for >12 months), not taking hormone replacement therapy, was conducted. Adapted dermocosmetic regimens, specific to each group (day cream, night cream and serum), were applied for 56 days. Assessments included automatic artificial intelligence diagnostics of eight clinical facial signs, hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and a menopause skin QoL questionnaire. RESULTS: Mean age was 50 ± 3.9 years (range 41-57) and 59 ± 3.8 years (range 50-66) for the perimenopause and menopause groups, respectively. Significant improvements in wrinkles and vascular signs, increases in hydration, decreases in TEWL, and a positive impact on QoL were observed after 56 days of application of the respective dermocosmetic regimens for both the perimenopause and menopause groups. CONCLUSION: The anti-aging skin care products designed specifically for perimenopausal and menopausal women increased skin hydration and improved wrinkles with a positive impact on QoL.

The objective and subjective impact of a daily self-massage on visible signs of stress on the skin and emotional well-being.

INTRODUCTION: Currently, levels of stress, worry and sadness are increasing worldwide. Considered a part of healthcare, massage is associated with morphological, biological and psychological benefits. Little is known about using daily facial self-massage to improve skin quality and well-being. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the impact of a daily self-massage on the visible signs of stress on facial skin and well-being in women. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This open, prospective, clinical study was conducted in Paris, France. The visible signs of facial ageing were assessed with an objective 10-point scale and a subjective skin and well-being assessment with an online self-questionnaire. Each day for 2 weeks, participants performed a prescribed, 3-min self-massage routine at-home using a lubricant made of botanical oils. The prescribed massage included 14 gestures including stretching, flicking, deep typing, friction and smoothing on the face. RESULTS: Overall, 50 women, with Fitzpatrick skin type II or III, aged between 40 and 60 years were enrolled. Several statistically significant improvements on skin ageing signs were observed ptosis (p < 0.005, Student's t-test, -4.9%), fine lines (p < 0.0001 Student's t-test, -23.8%), plumpness (p < 0.005, Student's t-test, +4.4%) and radiance (p < 0.0001 Student's t-test, +16.7%). Subjective benefits were also declared. Most participants (>85%) agreed that their skin looks smoother, more bouncy and fine lines were reduced. Also, 100% of women declare that the massage boosts their feeling of well-being. CONCLUSION: This study showed that facial self-massage provided significant, visible clinical, and self-observed skin benefits, and feelings of well-being.

INTRODUCTION: Actuellement, les niveaux de stress, d'inquiétude et de tristesse augmentent dans le monde entier. Considéré comme faisant partie des soins de santé, le massage est associé à des bénéfices morphologiques, biologiques et psychologiques. On sait peu de choses sur l'automassage quotidien du visage pour améliorer la qualité et le bien-être de la peau. OBJECTIF: Évaluer l'impact de l'automassage quotidien sur les signes visibles de stress sur la peau du visage et le bien-être des femmes. MATÉRIEL ET MÉTHODES: Cette étude clinique en ouvert, prospective a été menée à Paris, en France. Les signes visibles du vieillissement facial ont été évalués à l'aide d'une échelle objective de 10 points, et d'une évaluation subjective de la peau et du bien-être à l'aide d'un auto-questionnaire en ligne. Chaque jour pendant 2 semaines, les participantes ont réalisé chez elles une routine d'automassage prescrite de 3 minutes en utilisant un lubrifiant à base d'huiles végétales. Le massage prescrit comprenait 14 gestes, dont des étirements, des mouvements de va-et-vient, des tapotements profonds, des frottements et un lissage du visage. RÉSULTATS: 50 femmes âgées de 40 à 60 ans ayant un phototype de peau II ou III selon la classification de Fitzpatrick ont été incluses. Plusieurs améliorations statistiquement significatives des signes du vieillissement cutané ont été observées: ptose (p < 0,005, test de Student: -4,9 %), ridules (p < 0,0001, test de Student: -23,8 %), raffermissement (p < 0,005, test de Student: +4,4 %) et éclat du teint (p < 0,0001, test de Student: +16,7 %). Des bénéfices subjectifs ont également été signalés. La plupart des participantes (> 85 %) étaient d'accord pour dire que leur peau avait un aspect plus lisse, plus souple, et que les ridules étaient réduites. De plus, 100 % des femmes déclarent que le massage stimule leur sensation de bien-être. CONCLUSION: Cette étude a montré que l'automassage du visage apportait des bénéfices cutanés cliniques et auto-observés significatifs et visibles, ainsi qu'un sentiment de bien-être.

Objective and automatic grading system of facial signs from smartphones' pictures in South African men: Validation versus dermatologists and characterization of changes with age.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the capacity of the automatic detection system to accurately grade, from selfie pictures, the severity of eight facial signs in South African men. METHODS: Selfie pictures (obtained from frontal and back cameras) of 281 South African men differently aged (20-70 years) were obtained and analyzed by an automatic artificial intelligence (AI)-based automatic grading system. Data were compared with the clinical gradings made by experts and dermatologists. RESULTS: In all facial signs, both series of gradings were found highly correlated with, however, different coefficients (0.59-0.95), those of marionette lines and cheek pores being of lower values. No differences were observed between data obtained by frontal and back cameras. With age, in most cases, gradings show up to the 50-59 year age-class, linear-like changes. When compared to men of other ancestries, South African men present lower wrinkles/texture, pigmentation, and ptosis/sagging scores till 50-59 years, albeit not much different in the cheek pores sign. The early onset (mean age) of visibility of wrinkles/texture for South African men were (i.e., reaching grade >1) 39 and 45 years for ptosis/sagging. CONCLUSION: This study completes and enlarges the previous works conducted on men of other ancestries by showing some South African specificities and slight differences with men of comparable phototypes (Afro American).

Video-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance.

OBJECTIVE: Until now, standardized evaluation of cosmetic effects was conducted mainly in still conditions such as pictures. In real life, the consumers' experience of their cosmetics' effects is dynamic and some of the benefits can be better observed under movement. In order to capture motion-related performance of cosmetics, we developed a video-based paired comparison on an online platform. METHODS: We validated this new tool through the evaluation of eyeshadow with high light reflection and colour gradation, especially visible under motion according to the observer point of view. This formula was compared with two marketed benchmarks. The three products were applied sequentially on the eyelid of eight Japanese women. Videos were taken in standardized light, speed and face position with a rotating camera around the face. The videos were uploaded on an online secured platform and eyelid 3D effect, highlight and colour gradation were evaluated through paired comparison test by 60 Japanese women from home on their PC or tablets. Those results were compared with picture-based paired comparison by the same observers. RESULTS: Video-based paired comparison provided higher discrimination of products compared to picture-based comparison. CONCLUSION: As compared to still camera acquisition, the evaluation of cosmetics based on videos is closer to real-life experience and can bring higher discrimination, especially for motion-related attributes.

OBJECTIF: Jusqu'à présent, l'évaluation standardisée des effets cosmétiques a été réalisée principalement dans des conditions immobiles telles que des photos. Dans la vie réelle, l'expérience des consommateurs des effets de leurs cosmétiques est dynamique, et certains des avantages peuvent être mieux observés en mouvement. Afin de saisir les performances des produits cosmétiques liées au mouvement, nous avons mis au point une comparaison par paires basée sur des vidéos sur une plateforme en ligne. MÉTHODES: Nous avons validé ce nouvel outil en évaluant un fard à paupières à forte réflexion lumineuse et à gradation de couleurs, particulièrement visible en mouvement selon le point de vue de l'observateur. Cette formule a été comparée à deux références commercialisées. Les trois produits ont été appliqués successivement sur la paupière de huit femmes japonaises. Les vidéos ont été prises dans des conditions de lumière, de vitesse et de position du visage normalisées, avec une caméra tournant autour du visage. Les vidéos ont été téléchargées sur une plateforme sécurisée en ligne, et l'effet 3D des paupières, l'accentuation et la gradation des couleurs ont été évalués au moyen d'un test de comparaison par paires par 60 femmes japonaises depuis leur domicile sur leur PC ou leur tablette. Ces résultats ont été mis en parallèle à une comparaison par paires sur photo par les mêmes observateurs. RÉSULTATS: La comparaison par paires sur vidéo a permis de mieux distinguer les produits par rapport à la comparaison sur photo. CONCLUSION: Par rapport à l'acquisition d'images fixes, l'évaluation des cosmétiques à partir de vidéos est plus proche de l'expérience réelle et peut permettre de mieux distinguer les produits, en particulier pour les attributs liés au mouvement.

In vitro and in vivo validation of a new three-dimensional fringe projection-based device (AEVA-HE) dedicated to skin surface mapping.

BACKGROUND: Aging signs are much visible on the surface of the skin that presents different changes: cheeks start to sag, more and deeper wrinkles appear, and pigmentation spots increase. Face diagnostic to recommend products includes assessing cutaneous micro-relief or the micro-depressive network on the face. Furthermore, there is an increasing demand for clinical and instrumental methods to prove the efficacy of anti-aging treatments. As a result, very accurate and sensitive three-dimensional (3D) devices are developed and validated to measure and quantify aging skin and to catch fine anti-aging products acting on wrinkles and fine lines. METHODS: AEVA-HE, a non-invasive 3D method based on fringe projection technology, is used to robustly characterize the skin micro-relief from a full-face acquisition and from multiple extracted zones of interest. In vitro and in vivo studies are conducted to assess the reproducibility of this system and its precision toward a standard fringe projection system, DermaTOP. RESULTS: The AEVA-HE successfully measured micro-relief and wrinkles and demonstrated the reproducibility of measurements.  AEVA-HE parameters were found highly correlated to DermaTOP. CONCLUSION: The present work illustrates the performance of the AEVA-HE device and its dedicated software kit as a precious tool for quantifying the major characteristics of wrinkles appearing with age and thus offers a high potential for assessing the effect of anti-wrinkling products.

Analysis of images supplied by Skincam® can record the changes of some scar features that occur over time. Comparisons with the assessments of dermatologist and patients' perception.

OBJECTIVE: The objective of the study was to assess in vivo the validity of a new imaging device in quantifying the scarring process over time and to compare its data with the expertise of dermatologist and patients' self-appraisals. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A total of 37 Korean women, aged 20-50 year, with closed scars of different types, were enrolled after a dermatological evaluation. All subjects applied daily a hydrating cream on their scars for 2 months. Images of scars at different times (Day 0, Day 28, and Day 56) were taken and further analyzed, yielding various parameters such as color, luminance, size, volume, and depth of each scar. A dermatologist visually graded, at each time point, the clinical aspect of the scar, and patients were asked to answer to some questions dealing with their self-examination of their scar. RESULTS: The changes in some scar features that occurred during the application period were quantified and statistically differed from the D0 baseline value. Scars became of reduced size, lighter (Increased luminance), less red, less deep, and less voluminous. Some of these parameters (volume, lightness, smoothness, texture regularity) were statistically different at D28 whereas some others (area, depth, redness) showed significant changes at D56 . Dermatologist expertise and patients' assessments were in high agreement. CONCLUSION: This methodological approach that uses a dedicated camera associated with image analysis, despite some inherent limits (size of the scar), appears as a valuable aid to surgeons in the management of scars, in the follow-up of a given procedure or treatment. Beyond scar management, this approach may be extended to other skin disorders such as acne.

Assessing the effect of cleansing products on artificially polluted human hairs and skin through in vivo and in vitro models.

OBJECTIVE: Based on in vivo data, in vitro models and new methods are created to mimic the impact of aerial pollution onto the hair surface and assess the efficacy of different formulae prototypes. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Two protocols are developed to mimic the pollution effect, in vitro, on purchased swatches, and in vivo, on scalps and forearms. First, with an artificial sebum mixed with Carbon Black particles, named "sebollution," we evaluated, through an instrumental color measurement, the cleansing efficacy of some shampoo on scalp and hair. The second protocol allowed to assess the interaction between hair care product deposit (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on) on hair and carbon black particles spread on fiber. The quantification of particle coverage allowed to evaluate the efficiency of a formula to limit the aerial pollution deposit on hair fiber. RESULTS: To simplify and accelerate the evaluation of 42 shampoo formulae, an extrapolation of the scalp cleaning process was validated on forearm. The respective cleanabilities were calculated and covered a large range of efficacy, from 5%, for a basic bland shampoo generally used to reset swatches, to a strong deep cleansing efficacy of 100%. On hair swatches, cleanability efficiencies of five shampoo were also evaluated to eliminate the deposited of sebollution, in a range of 40%-80%. To quantify the efficacy of preventing the deposition of carbon particle on hair surface, the percentage of coverage of 45 different products was measured, from 2% to 16%. The performance depended of the product category (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on), driven by the performance of the product deposit, and the capacity of this deposit to interact with aerial pollution. CONCLUSION: Three new protocols and evaluation methods are proposed to evaluate and quantify the performance of hair care product, to remove/clean, limit, and protect the hair fibers against the aerial pollution that could interact with hair, scalp and sebum. The validation of these approaches was done through the testing of a large panel of hair care product leading to a complete and sincere evaluation of cleansing and anti-deposit efficacy. Combining the knowledge acquired on pollution impact on hair and the development of specific way of evaluation, this work reinforced the rationale of using and developing new cosmetic products that reduced the impact of pollution upon some hair properties.

Accuracy and clinical relevance of an automated, algorithm-based analysis of facial signs from selfie images of women in the United States of various ages, ancestries and phototypes: A cross-sectional observational study.

BACKGROUND: Real-life validation is necessary to ensure our artificial intelligence (AI) skin diagnostic tool is inclusive across a diverse and representative US population of various ages, ancestries and skin phototypes. OBJECTIVES: To explore the relevance and accuracy of an automated, algorithm-based analysis of facial signs in representative women of different ancestries, ages and phototypes, living in the same country. METHODS: In a cross-sectional study of selfie images of 1041 US women, algorithm-based analyses of seven facial signs were automatically graded by an AI-based algorithm and by 50 US dermatologists of various profiles (age, gender, ancestry, geographical location). For automated analysis and dermatologist assessment, the same referential skin atlas was used to standardize the grading scales. The average values and their variability were compared with respect to age, ancestry and phototype. RESULTS: For five signs, the grading obtained by the automated system were strongly correlated with dermatologists' assessments (r ≥ 0.75); cheek skin pores were moderately correlated (r = 0.63) and pigmentation signs, especially for the darkest skin tones, were weakly correlated (r = 0.40) to the dermatologist assessments. Age and ancestry had no effect on the correlations. In many cases, the automated system performed better than the dermatologist-assessed clinical grading due to 0.3-0.5 grading unit differences among the dermatologist panel that were not related to any individual characteristic (e.g. gender, age, ancestry, location). The use of phototypes, as discontinuous categorical variables, is likely a limiting factor in the assessments of grading, whether obtained by automated analysis or clinical assessment of the images. CONCLUSIONS: The AI-based automatic procedure is accurate and clinically relevant for analysing facial signs in a diverse and inclusive population of US women, as confirmed by a diverse panel of dermatologists, although skin tone requires further improvement.

Structural and functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men: A pilot study.

OBJECTIVE: The objective of the study was to associate, on the same Chinese male subjects, changes in facial ageing signs with some biomechanical skin properties. METHODS: The severities of 20 facial ageing signs of 219 differently aged Chinese men (20-65 years) were graded in blind by trained experts through standardized photographs, using a referential skin Atlas dedicated to Asian men. On each subject, the mechanical properties were assessed on the cheek area (left or right at random) by the validated suction technique Cutometer®. Finally, the skin colour parameters were assessed on images from VISIA-CR device. RESULTS: Clinically speaking, the severity of almost all facial ageing signs increases from 30 to 65 years, in a linear-like progression, whereas the 20-30 years shows weak increases. Skin colour shows slight but progressive decreases in Luminance and ITA, whereas the yellow and red components slightly increased between 40 and 65 years. At the exception of skin firmness, the skin mechanical properties show a clear decline during the 30-50 years period and plateau beyond. CONCLUSION: The present study suggests that the 20-30 years period, albeit more clinically 'silent' than the other periods of age, seems to be an age range during which early alterations of some dermal elements' onset. Deeper in vivo investigating techniques (Echography, Multiphotonic microscopy) are needed to confirm such hypothesis.

OBJECTIF: Pouvoir associer, sur les mêmes sujets masculins chinois, les modifications des signes de vieillissement faciaux avec certaines propriétés mécaniques du tégument. MÉTHODES: Les sévérités de vingt signes du vieillissement faciaux de 219 hommes chinois de différents âges (de 20 à 65 ans) ont été évalués en aveugle par des experts entraînés sur des photographies standardisées en utilisant des échelles cliniques de référence pour les hommes asiatiques issues des Atlas du vieillissement. Sur chaque sujet les propriétés biomécaniques ont été enregistrées sur la zone de la joue (droite ou gauche suivant un plan de randomization) avec un appareil de succion validé, le Cutometer®. Enfin, les paramètres coloriels ont été mesurés sur des images enregistrées avec le VISIA-CR. RÉSULTATS: D'un point de vue clinique, la sévérité de la plupart des signes étudiés augmentent de manière linéaire de 30 à 65 ans, tandis qu'entre 20 et 30 ans les augmentations sont faibles. La couleur de la peau présente une faible, mais linéaire, chute de la luminance et de l'ITA, tandis que les composantes jaune et rouge augmentent légèrement entre 40 et 65 ans. A exception de la fermeté de la peau, les propriétés mécaniques présentent une chute importante entre 30 et 50 ans et un plateau ensuite. CONCLUSION: Cette étude suggère que la période entre 20 et 30 ans, observée comme "silencieuse" d'un point de vue Clinique contrairement aux autres classes d'âge, semble être un moment charnière durant lequel les premières altérations dermiques s'opèrent. De plus amples investigations in vivo usant de techniques d'imageries structurelles (Microscopie Multi-photonique, Echographie…) seraient nécessaires pour confirmer de tells hypothèses.

Repeatability and reproducibility of a hyperspectral imaging system for in vivo color evaluation.

BACKGROUND: Color imaging is a tried and true method for the evaluation of cosmetic and dermatological effects, but it fails to capture all the information in a scene's spectral reflectance. For this reason, there has been in recent years increasing interest in the use of imaging spectrometers for clinical studies and product evaluation. MATERIAL AND METHODS: We developed a novel HyperSpectral Imager (HSI) able to take in vivo full-face format images as a next generation instrument for skin color measurement and beyond. Here, we report part of the results of our first full-scale validation test of the HSI. We replicated a make-up foundation screening test by applying three products to a panel of 9 models and evaluated the product L∗ , a∗ , b∗ , and ∆E effect immediately after application relative to the bare skin condition. We repeated this test twice in order to study the repeatability of the HSI as an evaluation instrument and during each test two different operators duplicated the data acquisition so we can assess the reproducibility of the measurements. RESULTS: We find that the measurements from the HSI provide repeatability and reproducibility as good or better than those of our previous benchmark devices. CONCLUSION: From these results, we conclude that not only is the HSI suitable for use in color evaluation studies, but also that it gives operational advantages over the previous generation of evaluation instruments, as it provides a spectral measurement combined with good spatial resolution. This allows for analysis of color over an area and post hoc selection of study regions and so opens new possibilities for studies of complex in vivo phenomena which neither non-imaging spectrometers nor conventional cameras can pursue. This study also raises points for future work concerning proper inclusion of instrument uncertainty in comparisons of results between instruments and handling of systematic uncertainties from analyses based on a single area.

Objective and automatic grading system of facial signs from selfie pictures of South African women: Characterization of changes with age and sun-exposures.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the capacity of the automatic detection system to accurately grade, from smartphones' selfie pictures, the severity of fifteen facial signs in South African women and their changes related to age and sun-exposure habits. METHODS: A two-steps approach was conducted based on self-taken selfie images. At first, to assess on 306 South African women (20-69 years) enrolled in Pretoria area (25.74°S, 28.22°E), age changes on fifteen facial signs measured by an artificial intelligence (AI)-based automatic grading system previously validated by experts/dermatologists. Second, as these South African panelists were recruited according to their usual behavior toward sun-exposure, that is, nonsun-phobic (NSP, N = 151) and sun-phobic (SP, N = 155) and through their regular and early use of a photo-protective product, to characterize the facial photo-damages. RESULTS: (1) The automatic scores showed significant changes with age, by decade, of sagging and wrinkles/texture (p < 0.05) after 20 and 30 years, respectively. Pigmentation cluster scores presented no significant changes with age whereas cheek skin pores enlarged at a low extent with two plateaus at thirties and fifties. (2) After 60 years, a significantly increased severity of wrinkles/texture and sagging was observed in NSP versus SP women (p < 0.05). A trend of an increased pigmentation of the eye contour (p = 0.06) was observed after 50 years. CONCLUSION: This work illustrates specific impacts of aging and sun-exposures on facial signs of South African women, when compared to previous experiments conducted in Europe or East Asia. Results significantly confirm the importance of sun-avoidance coupled with photo-protective measures to avoid long-term skin damages. In inclusive epidemiological studies that aim at investigating large human panels in very different contexts, the AI-based system offers a fast, affordable and confidential approach in the detection and quantification of facial signs and their dependency with ages, environments, and lifestyles.

A 5-hour follow-up of the impact on ageing facial signs of some foundations in Japanese women through automatically analysed selfie pictures.

OBJECTIVE: To explore the possibility of an automatic grading algorithm to detect and quantify, from selfie pictures, the subtle changes of facial signs brought by the application of a foundation. MATERIAL AND METHODS: A total of 270 Japanese differently aged women (30-54y) living in four different Japanese cities took selfies before, immediately and 5 h after having applied their own foundation, with their own routine. RESULTS: The analysis of 810 selfie pictures revealed (3 times × 270 women) that, prior to applications, all women presented a low grade of facial ageing. In most cases, the severities of less marked facial signs were detected and quantified, found affected by routine at different extents in all age-classes, but more intensely in the older age-class (45-54y) despite their more pronounced signs in bare skin status. In contrast, periorbital wrinkles were detected as more severe in all age-classes at both timing, that is, immediately and 5 h post-application as well as Nasolabial folds 5 h post-application. The amplitude of these positive or negative changes, although found of low amplitude, as decimals of the initial grades, was significantly detected. CONCLUSION: This automatic system appears apt at grading subtle changes in facial ageing signs brought by a foundation and could be a valuable help to the consumers of make-up products, in refining their individual procedure to obtain a more personalized desired facial appearance.

OBJECTIF: Explorer la possibilité pour un algorithme de scorage automatique des signes faciaux de détecter et quantifier sur la base de photographies 'selfies', les changements subtils apportés par l'application et la tenue de fonds de teint. MATÉRIEL ET MÉTHODES: 270 femmes japonaises âgées de 30 à 54 ans et vivant dans 4 villes différentes ont pris des selfies sur la base de leur smartphone avant, immédiatement et 5 heures après avoir appliqué leurs routines cosmétiques incluant leur propre fond de teint. RÉSULTATS: L'analyse des 810 selfies (3 temps×270 femmes) a révélé que, avant application, la plupart des femmes présentent des grades faibles de vieillissement facial. Dans la plupart des cas, les sévérités des signes les moins marqués, détectés et quantifiés, a été trouvée affectée à différents niveaux dans toutes les classes d'âge, mais plus intensément pour les volontaires les plus âgées (45 à 54 ans) en dépit de leurs valeurs plus élevées sur peau nue. A contrario, les rides péri-orbitales ont été mesurées comme plus sévères dans toutes les classes d'âge à tous les temps, c'est-à-dire immédiatement et 5 heures apprès application du fond de teint tandis que le sillon nasogénien a été observé comme plus sévère 5 heures après application. L'amplitude de ces changements positifs ou négatifs, bien que faible avec des valeurs décimales des grades initiaux, a été significativement détectée. CONCLUSIONS: Le système de scorage automatique apparaît capable d'évaluer des changements subtils dans les signes de vieillissement faciaux apportés par l'application de fonds de teint et se révèle une aide intéressante aux consommateurs de produits de maquillage pour affiner leurs routines individuelles afin d'obtenir des résultats plus personnalisés sur l'apparence désirée.

Virtual approach of the aesthetical fit between hair colours and skin tones in women of different ethnical origin backgrounds.

OBJECTIVE: To determine the aesthetical accordance between a given skin tone and the 11 possible colours of head hairs, covered by a marketed hair colouration product. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The photographs of professional top models, representing several ancestries (non-Hispanic European and Euro-American, East Asian, Hispanic Euro-American, and African-American ancestries), were used to virtually modify skin tones (from light, medium to dark) and hair colour by an artificial intelligence (AI)-based algorithm. Hence, 117 modified photographs were then assessed by five local panels of about 60 women each (one in China, one in France and three in US). The same questionnaire was given to the panels, written in their own language, asking which and how both skin tones and hair colours fit preferentially (or not appreciated), asking in addition the reasons of their choices, using fixed wordings. RESULTS: Answers from the five panels differed according to origin or cultural aspects, although some agreements were found among both non-Hispanic European and Euro-American groups. The Hispanic American panel in US globally much appreciated darker hair tones (HTs). Two panels (East Asian in China and African American in US) and part of non-Hispanic European panel in France declared appreciating all HTs, almost irrespective with the skin tone (light, medium and dark). This surprising result is very likely caused by gradings (in %) that differ by too low values, making the establishment of a decisive or significant assessment. By nature highly subjective (culturally and/or fashion driven), the assessments should be more viewed as trends, an unavoidable limit of the present virtual approach. The latter offers nevertheless a full respect of ethical rules as such objective could hardly be conducted in vivo: applying 10 or 11 hair colourations on the same individual is an unthinkable option. CONCLUSION: The virtual approach developed in the present study that mixes two major facial coloured phenotypes seems at the crossroad of both genetic backgrounds and the secular desire of a modified appearance. Nonetheless, this methodology could afford, at the individual level in total confidentiality, a great help to subjects exposed to some facial skin disorders or afflictions.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on the perceived radiance/glow in differently aged women of six countries.

OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the impact of Facial radiance or Glow on the perception of age (PA) and to assess which facial signs most influence PA. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The faces of 1058 differently aged women (18-80 years) of six different ethnicities/countries (China, Japan, Korea, India, South Africa, and Brazil) were photographed under standard conditions. These allowed to focus on 20 different facial signs that were further graded by experts, using referential Atlases dedicated to facial aging. In each of the six countries, 100 local women were recruited as naïve panels to express their perceptions on Glow and Age on each full-face photograph (blind coded) of the local studied woman. RESULTS: A decreased Glow/Radiance appears clearly associated with an increased perceived age in all studied subjects, especially among Chinese, Japanese, and South African women. With regard facial signs, Skin texture (Wrinkles of all kinds), Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation signs prevail in almost all women at the exception of South African women where Pigmentation signs and Cheek skin pores largely predominate in the perception of both Glow and PA. Pigmentation signs are of a very high weight among Chinese and Japanese women. CONCLUSION: Despite some collective agreements, the present study shows some specificities within the women of the six ethnicities/countries. PA, a core index of antiaging strategies, goes along with facial Glow in almost all studied women. The duller the facial skin, the older it is perceived.